Iftar

Most people know that during Ramadan the Muslims fast.  No food, No WATER!, No smoking — nothing.  They just sit around and suffer all day.  It’s hot here too …. It has got to be a miserable experience.  Rere told me the purpose of the fast is to teach patience, self-control, & compassion for the hungry & suffering people.  Good on ’em.

So anyhoo …. all day long, they starve and sweat and thirst … but only till sunset.  At sunset the magic happens.  Pretty lights twinkle and the mosque man starts singing from the calling towers and food appears and water and sugary juices and of course, the smokers light up.  It’s called Iftar. Basically, its a feast.  Think Christmas dinner every night for a month.  It’s fun and delicious.

We went to an Iftar feast at a fancy restaurant in Zamalek.  It was trendy and posh with outdoor seating that included low tables, cushy chairs, and couches for feasting.  It was right on the Nile, decorated in the bright colors of Ramadan and had a great atmosphere.  The menu included a bowl of soup, a plate of meat, a plate of rice, several dips, fresh bread, a plate of assorted desserts, two kinds of juice … I’m sure there was more I’m not remembering … it was sooooo much food.  It was delicious.

Thanks Dave and Kat for inviting us along. 🙂

Crazy for Coptics!

We went on 2 tours this week.  Islamic & Coptic Cairo.  Learned about all the spiritual, churchy stuff going on in Cairo.

We saw some really awesome stuff,  but ….. you know what I found to be the most interesting ….. In Egypt, they tolerate all faiths ….. They don’t, however, seem to be to tolerant of a lack of faith.  What I mean is …. they don’t care if you are a Christian, a Muslim, a Jew … whatever …… but, they do seem to think it’s pretty lame to be “nothing.”  Oh, and when I say “be”, I mean you need to be a practicing, believing, standin’ firm, praying’, church goin’ something.  Amen.

…………..Ok, I am using the general population of Egypt pretty loosely here.  Obviously, I haven’t met all gazillion of them, but it’s just a vibe I pick up.  Religion, faith … these are important to everyone here.  It’s totally normal to ask if you’re Christian or Muslim or Mormon.  Rere asked on her first day “Madame, you are Christian?  (yes, Rere) Strong Christian? or not?” ……..

So, anyway, I just found this to be pretty interesting.  Obviously in the states we are tolerant of others religions, but we deal with it by excluding the faith factor from everything.  Just don’t talk about it and we will all be fine.  Wouldn’t want to offend anyone by talking about your “religion.”  Bible thumpers are so overbearing.

…….. Ok, again …Obviously, EVERYONE isn’t that way, but you know what I mean.

Anyhoo …..

A little history on the Coptics.  First of all “Coptic” basically means “Egyptian.”  So .. all Egyptians are technically Coptic.  But … a long, long time ago, some of the Coptics (or Egyptians) decided to convert to Islam and now they use the word “Coptic” to refer to Egyptian Christians and everybody else is pretty much Muslim.  So, the Coptics are believed to be some of the first Christians in Egypt.

Gather round.  It’s story time:
St Mark was sent by Jesus to Egypt to tell Egypt about Chrisitanity.  As the story goes, poor Mark’s sandals were a bit worn out and he decided to stop off at the cobblers house to get his shoe fixed.  As is typical …. this (now pagan) cobbler was very hospitable and offered to let Mark stay, rest, and sleep.  Of course, Mark (following orders) shared with this cobbler the good news of Jesus.  The cobbler accepted the news of Jesus and it is believed that he hosted the first church in his home.  …. You can read the Bible to see how the story is supposed to end.  😉

Another interesting fact about Coptic Cairo ……. So, remember how King Herod was trying really hard to find baby Jesus and kill him.  Of course, Mary & Joseph (like any good parents) weren’t havin’ that.  So, they fled to Egypt for a few years.  …….. There is a map in one of the churches that shows what they believe the journey looked like.  One of their stop overs was …… Yep, you guessed it.  Cairo.  The church it’s believed they took refuge in is in Coptic Cairo.  I went there!!!!  Yes, pretty amazing to think I stood where Jesus actually was.

And now, since I’m a Christian and Coptic Cairo was my favorite between Coptic & Islamic and since Julia already posted all the pics from Islamic Cairo …. I’m gonna share a couple pics of Coptic Cairo.  The Coptics weren’t to fond of us taking pics of their churches, but pics were allowed in the Hanging Church .. and at the fortress.

 A pic of the Babylon Fortress …. this has nothing to do with the Tower of Babel, just FYI.  Those big holes are underground rooms.  NOTE: This is important because the “Hanging Church” was built over a hole in the ground like this.  When they built the church they just laid planks over the big opening … hince, it got nicknamed “The Hanging Church” …. It’s actual name is St. Mary Virgin’s Coptic Orthodox Church. (that’s a mouthful) ..

An example of Coptic writing and Arabic Calligraphy ….. these carvings always amaze me.  What if you make a mistake … no erasers … do you start over …do they cut your hand off and end your career? Yikes.  

Courtyard entrance to the Hanging Church … this courtyard is all pretty new and has recently been restored.  It was very pretty, but nothing compared to the inside of the church.

Hello!  Could a facade be anymore fabulous?  All carved stone and inlay and paint …. and oh impressiveness.  Let’s go inside ……

 SNAP!!  People please … this is gorgeous.  The sermon is given from the fancy thing in the middle.  He stands up there and tells it like it is. The walls you see …. theses are all inlayed wood with Ivory and Ebony ….it’s so intricate.

A closer pic of the inlay work … pictures just don’t do it justice …

This is the Coptic Cross.  Apparently, back in the day, when the Christians were being hunted, the Coptics would wear something with this cross on it as a signal to other Coptics .. so they could know who to trust.   

It has the shape of the traditional cross with the points going North, South, East, & West.  The three extra points on each end symbolize the trinity and the three points times the four points equals twelve … symbolizing the 12 disciples.  Cool huh.

There were twelve columns in this church … one for each of Jesus’s disciples.  Only one column was black …. guess who that column represents … Judas ….Ouch.

 Love all these details … even the pews were beautiful.

This is the gate to the city.  Way back when, the city streets were more like alleys and passage ways.  There was usually only one entrance into the city from the outside … these entries were closed at night and opened again every morning.  Supposedly, there was sometimes a trick to opening the gates and only the people who lived there knew the trick. 

Remember how I said they didn’t really like us taking pics ….yeah …bummer.  You’ll just have to come visit me in Egypt to see the rest of the churches in Coptic Cairo. 🙂

I’m just ranting …

Cause I don’t get it.

 I don’t understand how the Egyptian people, the government, all the “departments of” can do this.  They just ignore all this insanely old and important stuff that literally dates back to the beginning of time.   I have now seen almost all of the touristy stuff to see here in my general vicinity of Cairo and most of it is just there.  Remember how I said the pyramids were just sitting’ in the sand?  That seems to be the trend here.  Even the Egyptian Museum, which holds something like a zillion antiquities, (not to mention tons of mummies) is incredibly weak.  There is hardly any information to read about what you see … you have to buy a map to figure out what time period you are looking at.  You can walk around and touch everything.  I probably could have let my kid climb the ancient statues — doubt too many people would have noticed.  Oh wait! There was that one guy who walked by once and asked the kids not to touch.  Oh, and there was a sign stating that “Laser Guns” were not allowed.   (what?!)

 Egypt owns the actual stuff that is written about in history books ALL over the world.  You’d think they would put more effort into showing it off.  I asked the tour guide today why more effort isn’t put in to keeping the mosques restored and clean.  She said there are three departments of the government involved in maintaining the antiquities.  Basically, it comes down to money.  None of the departments want to shell out the big bucks required to hire the pros to keep the 24K gold in the mosque clean.  I guess I kinda get it, but still … it stinks.

Ugh.

I feel better.

So, even if the gold isn’t sparkly and the crystals are covered in dust and the silk carpets are still being walked on, it’s still really impressive.  Really beautiful actually.  And, it’s all there.  Just the way they left it. (plus a few thousand years of wear & tear).  If you get a chance, come see it before it wears out completely.

Rules are for pansies ….

Who needs rules?  A little common sense goes a long way.

Meet Heather.  http://thewanderingdrays.blogspot.com/   Formerly known as the “Fab Sponsor” ..now known as “Friend.” (yep, I just pulled the sappy card).  Heather is awesome and you can read all about her and her adorable kids and their life in Cairo on her blog. 

Ok, back to the point.  Rules.  So, Heather and her lovely family left yesterday for a 5 week vacation in the States.  I currently have possession of her car.  YEP!!!!  I’ve been driving in Egypt!!!  Bring it!!!

Who needs rules?  Not these people.  So, how do you drive in a city of 8 million people with no rules.  Just use your common sense.  Here is what I’ve figured out so far. 

1. That old beat up car doesn’t care  …. give it some space.
2.  That big truck full of dirt with a dude riding on top is not going to speed up even though he is in the middle of the road … go around  (on the right or left) as soon as you can fit
3.  The honking means nothing …it’s just a way to say Hi to everybody you pass.
4.  Swerve in a snake like pattern to claim your road space.
5.  There are no speed limit … go as fast as you like between the speed bumps positioned every quarter mile.
6.  Ignore the yellow and white lines painted in the road … they just needed to use up the extra paint.
7. When making a left turn, close your eyes and go .. Inshallah you will be fine.
8.  If you pass a great parking spot or miss your turn … no worries, throw it in reverse and claim your territory.
9.  Rolling stops are the only acceptable method  ….. if you actually stop you’ll probably get rear-ended.
10. If you think you can’t fit between the cars parked on both sides of the one way road … Go “Egypt skinny” … Pull those mirrors in and make it happen.

Watch out for the donkey carts

 when making a left turn …. inshallah 

we found Carrefour … and two dudes on the same bike

go Egypt skinny!

Did I mention I totally LOVE driving here! (seriously, no sarcasm there)

photo credits go to Julia!

Miz Klista

A conversation I have frequently.  Costa Coffee delivers.  I call and this is what happens.  I just had to make a record of this. 

…the Arab guys who answer are usually really happy and excited sounding .. its funny

((RING, RING))
 
Costa: Costa Cou-ffee

Me: Delivery please

C: Please may you wait while I transfer to our language department. (roll the “r” there)

M: yes

C:  Ello Miz Klista,   Welcome to Costa Cou-ffee.  How-l can I service you today?

M:  Delivery please

C: Ov-f Course (roll “r”), Miz Klista, May I check your ad-res?  (he states address which I will not write on blog for  security purposes)

M:  Yes

C:  Vedy Good.  How can I help you?

M:  Mooooccccchhhhhhaaaaa Cooooolllllleeeeerrrr   (said very slowly and extremely enunciated)

C: Moo-ka?

M:  No, Mooooocccccchhhhaaaa Cooooollllleeeeerrr

C: Mooooocccccchhhhaaaa Cooooollllleeeeerrr?

M: Yes

C:  What size will you pleasure?

M:  Large

C:  Massimo

M:  Yes

C:  Miz Klista, Can I  interest you in any of our delicious sweet treats this eve-ning?  A delicious chocolate cake perhaps?

M:  No thank you. 🙂

C:  As you wish Miz Klista,  Your order will be thir-dy five LE and delivery in thir-dy minutes.

M:  Shukran.

C: Afwan

((click))

Tuesdays with Rere …

Did you know we have a boab?  Yep,  I strongly dislike him these days.  He is rude.  He gives people dirty looks.  He wants more money from me.  Ugh.  What’s a boab?  Think — “doorman” — minus the revolving glass doors and suit.   They provide security (kinda).  They unload your groceries (mine doesn’t but he should).  They wash your car (our car isn’t here yet).  Since we have a porch, he’s supposed to wash it (he doesn’t unless we hunt him down and ask him to.)   Yep, I strongly dislike him … yet,  we paid him exactly what he asked …. and he has some nerve … cause he came back to ask for more.  Did I mention I dislike him …strongly.

We also have a gardener.  This is pretty self explanatory.  He comes everyday and sweeps up the path around our house.  He keeps all the plants and grass very happy.  This is a tough job in the desert.  I like him.  He is nice.

Lastly, but certainly not leastly … we have Rere (pronounced with long “e” sounds).  Rere is my housekeeper.  She comes three … yep, THREE … days a week.  People, I feel like God is rewarding me for homeschooling my kids faithfully the last three years.  Seriously — Can I hear an “Amen.”  Rere gets more of my housework done in a six hours day that I ever got done in a week.  People, she puts the laundry away — like in the drawers.  It’s a beautiful thing!  My bathrooms gleam.  The floors are gritless.  She irons!  She makes all the beds.  She changes the sheets once a week( — don’t lie — ya’ll know you only change your sheets when YOU think they’re dirty).  Did I mention my kitchen is fantastically fresh and clean all the time? – it is.  She loves the kids! -this is a big plus!  The list goes on …. but, I will mention,  she also goes in town and buys all my produce from the local markets … then she brings it all home to me and washes it … and puts it away … and cooks me a delicious dinner.  I send her out because she gets the “Egyptian price” — I get the “Blond, white, american price.”  

This is a small sampling of what she picked up today.  The fruit here is great.  It’s all local.  The bread in the top left corner — Straight from the bakery!  Yum!  It’s called Baladi Bread.  It looks like pita bread but tastes much less like cardboard.  

Imagine sitting at your dining room table ….. You’re eating a hot, delicious dinner with your lovely little (or big – whichever applies) family.  You are eating a home cooked meal.  You’re smiling, You’re laughing, You’re loving life.   Why are you so happy?  Because — YOU didn’t make the meal.  YOU didn’t clean the kitchen. YOU only have to rinse the dishes you are currently eating off of and your night is over!  Can I hear another “AMEN!”

The menu was:

Lenitl Soup 

Babaganook with bread Baladi

Green Salad

It was seriously delicious too.  I know delicious, because I grew up in south Louisiana.  Just sayin’.

I know you’re dying to ask.  Go ahead. 

“Krista, if you have all these people to help you all day, what are you doing with your time?”

 My short answer – 

Maybe I’ll take up tennis or something.

Where’s the Visitor’s Center?

Could someone please point me towards the Visitor’s Center … or maybe the gift shop …or maybe even one of those little plaques that explains the history or science behind what I’m looking at?  Anything?

Have you ever been to Yellow Stone National Park?  How ’bout Mount Rushmore?  Maybe a battleship museum?  Next time you go somewhere …anywhere in the States, don’t take those little information kiosks for granted.  You know what I’m talking about, right.  Everything in the States is marked. We have huge signs on the interstates … all the state lines are marked and then you are promptly greeted with a Welcome Center (some even serve drinks).  Every national park is full of well marked tourist look-outs and information pamphlets and park rangers to guide you through your experience.  There is no national landmark that is not roped off, well preserved and protected — no touching.  There is always a visitors center and lovely little mementos for purchase so you can always remember your fabulous, culture rich, & educational experience.

This is not so in Egypt.  So far, we have seen the great pyramids of Giza, we have been to the Egyptian museum, we have visited Memphis (the oldest capital in the world) & Saqqara.  We frequent the Khan. We have sailed the Nile in a Felucca.  Egypt is very rich in history.  It’s difficult for me to even comprehend how old this stuff is …. literally, from the beginning of time.  Yet, I have no pamphlets to show for my excursions.  There was no visitors center to peruse through.  There was no plaque or information board to explain to me what I was seeing.  Nothing to enrich my experience.

Can you imagine going to see the pyramids?  These things are ancient.  They are huge.  Everyone in the world learns about them in school …. repeatedly.  Even little kids .. like Kindergartners know about pyramids.  The only one of the seven ancient wonders of the world that still exists. I got to go see this!  This is huge!  I was so excited before we left … Seriously amazing opportunity.  We started the drive out there.  They are about 30 minutes out of town in the greater Cairo area.  Of course, they are huge, so we get glimpses of the pyramids on the way.  You can see them from several places on the interstate as you get close.  We arrive.  We drive up this little road.  So exciting!  We get out.  We buy tickets from this creepy guy behind a counter with bars on it.  Nothing spectacular so far … just the ticket booth.  We walk through the metal detectors (they are everywhere here and they rarely serve a purpose other than slowing you down).  We walk up this little sidewalk and there they are.  Pyramids.  Pyramids surrounded by sand.  Thats it.  Slightly anti-climatic.  I’m American.  I expected a visitors center.  I expected ropes and guards.  I expected a short informative film.  Something … anything to prove I was seeing something awesome.  Nothing.

Luckily, we had hired a tour guide.  🙂  He served as our source of information.  And — he was awesome.  I learned so much.  And I learned to appreciated the lack of ropes and guards.  It makes for a very authentic experience.  There was definitely a sign that said “No Climbing”.  Josh was definitely climbing.  The guards (apparently there were some around) show up out of nowhere — the tour guide paid them off and they left us alone.  We went inside the great pyramid.  We walked around it.  We touched it.  We climbed on it.  We took pictures.  It was awesome.

So.  I am again adapting to the Egyptian way.  Maybe it’s more the “I’m an American who lives in Egypt way.”  Something tells me the Egyptians don’t hire tours guides … shoot, I doubt they even go see the sights.  Anyway, the point is …. it’s different, but I’m working with it.  And, OMG!!!!  I saw the GREAT PYRAMIDS OF GIZA!!!!  not mention a few others, and the giant statue of Ramses, and all of the treasures found in King Tut’s tomb, and some mummies ……..the list goes on.  🙂